- Na partida, não se deve aquecer o motor com o carro parado. É melhor começar a andar devagar, ir acelerando progressivamente sem exigir grande potência do motor nos primeiros metros.
- Evite andar com o motor em alta rotação. Consulte o manual do proprietário para verificar qual é o regime em que o torque (força) máximo é atingido.
- No trânsito, mantenha-se o máximo possível nas marchas mais altas sem no entanto forçar o motor e deixa-lo dar trancos. Ande em velocidade regular, sem grandes freiadas ou acelerações repentinas.
- Mantenha o motor bem regulado, com os bicos injetores desobstruídos e com os filtros de ar dentro do prazo de utilização recomendado pelo fabricante. As velas também precisam estar em bom estado e com a folga do eletrodo de acordo com as especificações estabelecidas por cada marca.
- Estacionando, nunca acelere antes de desligar a ignição.
- Andar com o ar-condicionado ligado mesmo em dias frios também acaba provocando desperdício de combustível. É recomendável usá-lo com moderação.
- Levar peso desnecessário no porta-malas, por esquecimento, exige mais esforço do motor e também aumenta o consumo. Vale a pena remover os objetos que não serão usados durante a viagem.
- Pneus descalibrados também são vilões quando o assunto é economizar combustível. Não se esqueça de calibrá-los semanalmente. Na maioria dos casos, as pressões corretas estão impressas numa etiqueta atrás da portinhola do bocal de reabastecimento, ou na parte interna da tampa do porta-luvas.
- Se for viajar, os vidros abertos e a bagagem na capota são pontos que pesam contra o seu bolso na hora de reabastecer, pois afetam o perfil de penetração aerodinâmica do carro. Procure manter as janelas fechadas e não exagere na altura da carga colocada no bagageiro.
- Nunca encha o tanque de combustível até a boca. Nos carros com carburador, parte desse combustível acaba se perdendo pelo bocal ou pela válvula de alívio. Lembre-se: o nível correto do tanque é quando o combustível atinge o bico da bomba. Isso pode ser percebido quando o gatilho da mangueira desarma automaticamente.
- Não rode com o tanque na reserva, o que permite muito espaço para evaporação do combustível. Além disso, essa atitude faz com que resíduos que ficam no fundo do tanque sejam sugados para dentro do motor, entupindo os bicos injetores.
- Dirija com calma, sem exagerar nas acelerações, sem excesso de freadas bruscas e retomando a velocidade sem pressa. O motorista afoito é o maior amigo dos donos de postos de combustível.
- No caso dos carros dotados de carburador, desligue o afogador assim que o motor atingir a temperatura ideal de funcionamento.
- Mecânica: é fundamental verificar pelo menos uma vez por ano os elementos essenciais, afinação do motor, troca de filtros (um filtro sujo diminui o rendimento do motor), etc.
- Quando chegar a velocidade desejada, alivie um pouco o acelerador.
- Organize seu itinerário. Crie uma rota que atenda todos os seus compromissos. Concilie sua agenda da melhor forma, evite idas e vindas desnecessárias.
Como economizar combustível
Good Luck Finding a Performance Tire for Your Classic Muscle Car
The BF Goodrich Radial T/A is about as good as it gets - and though it's a good-looking tire, with handsome raised white lettering, the Radial T/A is not really a performance tire. It's pretty much a basic all-season radial with a standard passenger car "S" (112 mph) speed rating and tread designed for normal street driving. And that's about all there is.
You can find standard radials, some with white lettering, some blackwall. But if you want a sticky-compound performance tire with an H (130 mph or better) speed rating, you're going to find the cupboard's pretty bare.
So how come no one makes performance tires for old muscle cars? Well, they do make them - just not for the factory 14 and 15-inch steel rims those cars originally came with. You can get the same super-aggressive Michelin Pilots (or whatever) that come on a new Corvette or Mustang GT - provided you use modern large-diameter wheels.
At minimum, you'll need to change up to a 16x8 rim in order to have access to modern performance tires for your old muscle car.
But that changes both the look of the car (for sure) and (very likely) will dramatically alter the way the car rides and handles - possibly not for the better, either. At least, not without making appropriate changes to the rest of the car's suspension.
Keep in mind that the typical '60s-era, 70s-era performance car was designed for 14 or 15 inch wheels (and tires appropriate to wheels that diameter and width). Just because a 17 or 18 inch tall rim physically fits doesn't mean it's right - or even safe - for the car. Before you contemplate such a swap, consult an expert or you could end up with a car that handles worse than it did with the factory 15x7 steelies and a set of 225/70-15 Radial T/As.
Much larger (taller/wider) wheels and tires will probably also increase rolling resistance as well as the car's unsprung mass. Steering feel could become very screwy. Overlarge wheels/tires may end up rubbing inner fender wells or bottoming out whenever the car hits a pothole or dip in the road. It may be necessary to completely modify the factory suspension set up (springs, coils) and alter the geometry/camber, caster and all the rest of it - in order to get modern-sized wheels and tires to work right. And they will never look right. Not to me, at least.
As with '60s and '70s-era suspension geometry, the relationship of the car's body lines and proportions to the size of the wheels and tires was based on the look of 14 and 15 inch rims - considered "large" back in the day. You can get away with a 16 inch rim, but 17 ad 18 inch wheels just look awkward on a classic-era muscle car - like colorizing classic movies from the '30s.
The fact that it can be done doesn't mean it should be done. Sure, there's a possible performance enhancement to be had - both in terms of handling and traction (a big issue for V-8 muscle cars). But modern large diameter rims all look pretty much the same. Can you think of a modern wheel that really stands out - is part of the car - in the way that something like Pontiac's '70s-era Honeycomb wheel or Chevy Rally rim stands out?
Most muscle cars came with factory wheels that defined the package and contributed greatly to making the car what it was. What is a Shelby GT500 without its factory Magnum 500 wheels? Or a '71 GTX sans its Hurst mags? These wheels may be small by modern standards, but they have a style - and history - that you throw into the dumpster when you take them off the car in favor of a set of look-alike chromed-generic ree-uhms that every other pimped-out Escalade is also riding on.
But that brings us back to the dilemma of finding a decent tire - for the factory wheels - that's worthy of the capabilities of a classic muscle car. Coker and other suppliers are remanufacturing OE-type tires for numerous classic cars, including classic muscle cars. This is a relatively small potential market, but apparently, there's enough interest to make it economically worthwhile. I think there are probably enough of us out there with muscle cars we still like to drive (as opposed to just trailer to high-end car shows) to make it worthwhile for an outfit like Coker (or maybe even BF Goodrich) to make us some decent tires to fit our cars' stock/factory rims.
But we need to make our wants known for this to happen. So, if you feel like I do and would like to be able to buy a performance tire to fit your muscle car's factory wheels, drop 'em a line and let 'em know. The two most likely prospects are BF Goodrich and Goodyear, both of which used to make great tires for American muscle cars but don't anymore.
Mitsubishi ASX Outlander Sport concept
From design, the ASX is looking sports saloon combines design with Mitsubishi Lancer Mitsubishi Outlander SUV aggressive. Yes, it is technically all three were sharing the same platform. ASX has the same wheelbase with the Outlander, but with a total length of cut 25 mm, and a lower height 65 mm.
Proper driving position can be easily obtained thanks to the seating arrangements and a wide wheel. Press the 'start-stop' on the dashboard, and quiet engine running in idle condition. Hit the gas pedal and start moving aggressively ASX show his best. Peak power generated from the 2.0 liter engine to 150 hp at 6,000 rpm and maximum torque of 197 Nm at 4200 rpm. This car ran pretty quiet at speeds slightly above 100 kpj, with little road noise that penetrates into the cabin.
As quick maneuvering, four-wheel drive system make this car more firmly planted on the asphalt, without oversteer or understeer feels symptoms are excessive. This drive system also helps control taste enough, considering this car basically has a fairly soft suspension. Facing the bumpy road surface, suspension 'McPherson strut' in front and 'multi-link' in the back able to absorb shocks to the steady and keep the stability of the car. Informative steering light enough to continue the road, but the rotation was too light at high speed.
6-speed automatic transmission CVT technology provides driving pleasure when operated manually via 'paddle shift' behind the wheel. Switching gear it feels soft and sprightly, both when raising and lowering gear to pass up 'engine brake'.
When trying to sit in the rear passenger seat, flexibility is obtained thanks to the leg and head room are relieved. Use Oultander platform seems to be very influential here. Unfortunately, the position of sitting in the back was too upright. This is potentially exhausting time to travel long distances, let alone no backrest arrangement, although it made postifnya hand luggage room feels airy. In fact, the luggage capacity behind the ASX reached 442 liters, and terdongkrak up to 1193 liters when the rear seats folded.
New Look Nissan Juke
Bold exterior theme carry through to the interior. where a center console that is inspired from the fuel tank of a motor provides traction on this five-passenger crossover. The attraction increases with the presence of kemera retreat, Bluetooth capability, USB connectivity / iPod, remote steering, navigation (the model in Indonesia may be present without navigation).
Head and leg room for front passengers are very good. This is caused by the curved roofline. Unfortunately, the head room for rear passengers is limited. Transport capacity (trunk) can be increased to 830 liters by folding the rear seat. Juke does not have a regulator sliding rear seat (sliding back seat).
Juke B-based platform which is also used for the Nissan Versa, Cube, and the Renault Clio. Nissan Juke HR15DE engine equipped with powerful 113 hp at 6,000 rpm with maximum torque of 150 Nm at 4,000 rpm. Juke machines equipped dual injector system of the world's first mass production. This system has two injectors per cylinder, each with a nozzle to inject fuel into the cylinder for a more complete combustion. Also attending Variable Valve Timing (CVTV) for intake and exhaustnya thus more efficient fuel consumption, Nissan claims.
Juke also apply the latest designs that combine Xtronic CVT Continuous Variable Transmission inefficient sub-system with 2-speed gearbox. This system is believed by Nissan is able to improve the gear ratios than conventional CVT systems. In addition to the sub-gearboksnya, there is a pulley design new, more sweat and a small, flexible damper lock up, and a more efficient oil pump. Combined all this makes Juke's new CVT is more minimal friction by 30%.
Now it's time to try Juke. Button start / stop our press gently over the roar of the engine from behind bonnetnya welcome. Juke sitting position is high enough to make us free to cast a glance, and control the direction of the car. In the center console there is the Nissan Dynamic Control System (NDCS) is integrated in the dashboard (indash). This tool serves to set the AC and the characters driving the car (normal, sporty or eco), steering and throttle response.
This tool is so easy to be enabled. Simply press and the computer will arrange everything. As the opening menu, we press the normal button, and emerged bearing torque graph is an indicator overflow of torque to the front wheels. In this mode, the quality of mediocre performance (hence its name). To obtain optimum engine response, you must often stomping foot to the accelerator pedal (pedal to the metal).
Not for long with a normal mode, we then choose the sports mode. Well, in this mode, the graphical display on the monitor screen changes from torque to power with a red background. Looking at the graphics and the writing power, adrenaline were mounting, and we press the accelerator pedal deeply. The result is satisfactory. Torque feels more kick and steering response is sharper, though not significant.
2011 RedLine Dodge Charger
"We let the designers of automobile production and their friends at Mopar rip," said Ralph Gilles, CEO of Brand Cars Dodge and Senior Vice President of Product Design. "I want them to show us what they would do with this vehicle if it were their own dream car" said Gilles in a statement.
Hiding under a unique aluminum hood, Charger redline engine equipped with a capacity of 5.7-liter Hemi V8. This machine is enhanced with various Mopar upgrades including new headers, exhaust system and intake air cooling. Dodge says this upgrade gives benefits to increase horsepower and torque, but does not give any figures.
Charger Concept also gets a re-suspension of extreme driving one inch [25 mm] to be closer to the ground. Embedded is also a strut tower brace Mopar, and 22-inch alloy wheels wrapped chunky tires 265/35/22 on the front and 295/30/22 in the rear. On the outside, designers Charger car body dip into the carbon fiber as the material that the majority are found in almost all parts of the new bodykit, roof, hood, mirrors and side scoops new was said to recall the charm of the Dodge Charger R / T in 1970.
We do not have a picture cabin, but Dodge said the sedan sported-up will get a red-black interior with Mopar racing seat combined accents Katzkin leather of Nappa Radar Red color with bright red stitching. In addition there are also console bezels and a unique steering wheel equipped SRT prototype features paddle shift controls
It's Not the Teens, It's the Lack of Training
A third of those killed were the teenage drivers themselves - while another third were passengers riding with the teenage driver. But a third of the fatalities were occupants of other cars - or pedestrians who just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.
AAA says that makes teen drivers the single most dangerous group of motorists on the road - to others as much as to themselves.
The most lethal combination of all is a teenage driver with a bunch of teenage friends along for the ride. According to AAA President Robert Darbelnet, the risk of a potentially fatal accident involving a teen driver more than doubles when there is a teenage passenger in the car - and quintuples with the presence of two or more teen passengers.
Any former teen who made it safely to adulthood probably understands the connection immediately. Most of us can remember being 16 - and the sense of liberation that accompanied that first-time access to a car. For a lot of us, the first thing on the agenda was to pick up some of our friends and do what comes naturally to teens - go out and have a good time.
And having a good time often meant not paying attention to our driving - or trying to impress our friends with our driving prowess, or to see what the car can do.That often leads to a teen's first fender-bender (and sometimes worse).
Several states have tried passing laws forbidding teens from driving other teens (inconvenient for them, but with solid reasoning behind it) as well as curfews and other limitations. AAA also wants every state to require a 6-12 month probationary license for all teen drivers (which could be revoked for bad behavior) as well as at least 50 hours of adult-supervised driver training during the learner's permit stage. This is a step in the right direction - but really, just a baby step.
It's not teens, per se, that are the cause of so much trouble. It's inexperienced teens allowed onto the road before they've been properly trained - and adequately tested to ensure they're skilled enough to drive safely.
A great many of the accidents reported by AAA, for example, are single-vehicle crashes resulting from driver error such as over-correcting after an outside wheel inadvertently dips off the road onto a gravel shoulder. Instead of smoothly maintaining control and easing the car back onto the pavement, an inexperienced teen driver will jerk the wheel hard to the left, which in turn causes the car to skid back onto the road, over the double yellow line - and right into the path of oncoming traffic.
Teen drivers are also just beginning to develop their sense of spacial relationships (the ebb and flow of traffic around them) and often have not yet come to appreciate their own limits behind the wheel or the physical limits of the car they're driving, including such basic things as how much time/room it needs to come to a complete stop, its grip threshold - and how it will behave when traction is lost, as on snow or ice-slicked surfaces.
A late-model car equipped with all the latest technology "feels" perfectly safe at 85 mph (or going into a turn posted 45 mph at 60-something) so it's easy for a teen to get way ahead of himself before he has any idea he's pushing his luck. And by then, of course, it may be too late.
Unfortunately, many parents aren't prepared, willing - or qualified themselves - to properly instruct their own kids. And proper driver training gets into money.
A good 2-3 day accident avoidance course costs around $300-$500 or so, depending on where you go. The superb vehicle dynamics/handling courses offered by former race car drivers such as Bob Bondurant and Skip Barber can cost two or three thousand dollars - but confer potentially life-saving skills on the new/teenage driver.
In Germany and some other countries, this type of intensive (and expensive) new driver training is mandatory - on the theory that thehigh "up front" costs are justified by much-improved public safety. Unskilled, marginal drivers (teens and others alike) are kept off the road until they've proven they can operate a motor vehicle at a certain (and much higher than our own) level of skill. Germans view a driver's license as a hard-won privilege - not an entitlement.
Americans, for the most part, don't think serious driver training is worth the cost. And so long as that's true, we can continue to expect teen drivers to be a looming danger to themselves - and to everyone else on the road.
Beauty Future Cars: Dodge Charger 2011
Beauty Future Cars: Dodge Charger 2011
Beauty Future Cars: Dodge Charger 2011
Renault Grand Tour statin wagon
A concepção avançada, a aparência moderna e o conforto interno superior lhe dão vantagem em relação aos concorrentes. O Grand Tour é produzido e comercializado no Brasil em uma versão de acabamento: Dynamique 1.6 16V Hi-Flex.
O Grand Tour Dynamique 1.6 16V Hi-Flex conta com uma ampla e completa lista de equipamento, que inclui: airbags auto-adaptativos para motorista e passageiro, ar-condicionado digital, computador de bordo, sistema de freios ABS com EBD, vidros elétricos com sistema anti-esmagamento e acionamento à distância, retrovisores externos com regulagem elétrica, volante com regulagem de altura e profundidade e rádio CD com MP3 e comando satélite na coluna de direção. Com um desenho externo elegante e esportivo, o Grand Tour conta com rodas de liga leve aro 16, faróis de neblina, barra de teto e frisos cromados na grade dianteira.
O interior do Grand Tour prima pelo conforto, com elevado padrão de acabamento a partir do uso de material de alta qualidade. O Renault Grand Tour incorporou itens até então inéditos em um veículo produzido no Brasil, como o cartão de ignição que substitui as chaves convencionais e o sistema de partida por meio de botão.
A capacidade de carga do modelo também merece destaque. O Renault Grand Tour pode transportar entre 520 litros (até a altura da tampa do porta-malas) e 1.600 litros (com o banco traseiro rebatido). Para facilitar o transporte de volumes com formatos pouco usuais, o encosto do banco traseiro também pode ser rebatido nos formatos 1/3 e 2/3.
1.6 16V Hi-Flex: um motor adequado para as necessidades dos consumidores
O Renault Grand Tour é comercializado com o propulsor 1.6 16V Hi-Flex. Este motor conta com duplo comando de válvulas no cabeçote e desenvolve potência máxima de 110 cv (com gasolina) e 115 cv (com álcool), sempre a 5.750 rpm. O câmbio destinado a esse modelo é o manual de cinco velocidades.
Padrão 5 estrelas de segurança
Na Europa, o Grand Tour detém a pontuação máxima de cinco estrelas na mais rigorosa avaliação existente no continente: o Euro NCAP (Programa Europeu de Avaliação de Carros Novos). No Brasil, o modelo foi apontado pelo CESVI como líder no segmento “Station Wagon” do CAR Group 2010, ranking que classifica os veículos de acordo com os custos e a facilidade de realização de reparos nos veículos comercializados no país.
Esta é a segunda vez consecutiva que Grand Tour ocupa a primeira colocação em seus segmentos no ranking CAR Group, o que comprova a robustez, a durabilidade e a baixo custo de manutenção do veículo.
Texto e fotos Renault
Fiat will launch Roadster Series
Although still a concept but the manufacturer promises to showcase real cars that only charged two people. The car is scheduled to be produced is limited in the near future gasoline engine equipped with 1.4-liter turbocharged 152 horsepower capacity. It has a sturdy chassis that can support a more responsive suspension performance. Fusion body kit and 17-inch diameter lightweight alloy wheels make the look more aggressive
The roadster is also not combined with the standard model and also trim the suspension application 'flat' which is lower than 20mm from its normal size. Exclusive color orange will be presented in a special complete with front and rear spoiler. Same with the series roadster, sporty touch will be given to this exclusive variants as well as on the trim and dashboard panels and chair seats
How Do You Prepare For a Driving Emergency?
Defensive driving starts with having a plan. Experienced drivers prepare for emergencies by leaving themselves room for error. Masters of defensive driving never tailgate, never bump into the curb by turning too sharply, and rarely have to slam on the brake to avoid a collision. Keeping a safe distance between your car and everything around it—on all four sides—allows you to avoid potential hazards that pop up in the normal course of a day’s driving.
Defensive driving means that you carefully monitor your own physical and mental state before you hit the road. If you’re tired, ill, or just having a bad day, your reaction times can be seriously affected. When you know you’re not as alert as you normally are, you consciously plan to maintain a little extra space between your car and everything around you.
Experienced drivers make hundreds of minor adjustments during a drive that constantly allow them to avoid collisions. Good drivers make adjustments so smoothly and routinely that their reactions are scarcely noticeable to other drivers around them. A good driver sees potential hazards before they turn into emergencies. Constantly scanning the road, other cars, and pedestrians allows good drivers to smoothly turn away from hazards or slow down as the need may be. These minor adjustments are the heart and soul of good defensive driving.
What about a life-threatening driving emergency?—the kind of situation that the best drivers in the world can’t possibly anticipate? Is it possible to plan for that? It’s not only possible—it’s absolutely vital. And it’s when you’re most in need of a plan, because it’s the kind of situation that reduces your reaction times to the bare minimum.
Imagine this scenario: You’re driving on a two-lane highway at night. Suddenly an oncoming car swerves into your lane. You have only a split second to react. What do you do? If you have to think about, it’s already too late to avoid a collision. If you slam on the brake, you relinquish whatever control of the situation you may have. That’s a dangerous thing to do; it means that you’re placing your life and the lives of your passengers in the hands of another driver. That’s the worst decision you can make.
Good drivers know they can always get out of the way of an oncoming hazard faster than they can stop. Here’s how to handle the above scenario:
It’s always better to leave the road than hit somebody head-on. Keep one set of wheels on the paved surface if possible. Don’t slam on the brake; hard braking on a loose surface can cause you to skid out of control. Wait until your speed goes down, and gently brake. Then turn sharply to get back on the road. Trying to gradually work your way back onto the paved surface can cause your tires to grab the edge. As soon as both front tires are back on the road, counter steer at once.
Defensive driving doesn’t mean that good drivers constantly think about an emergency scenario while they’re actually driving. But experienced drivers have rehearsed these worst-case scenarios often enough in their mind that they can react quickly and safely when the threat arises. Defensive driving is never about expecting the worst. It’s about having the confidence and experience to manage any situation that appears.
2010 VW Golf Review
WHAT IT IS
The Golf is VW's entry-level model. It's a compact, front-wheel-drive sedan/coupe available with either gasoline or diesel engines. Prices start at $17,965 for the base 2.5L coupe and top out at $24,535 for a TDI (diesel) sedan.
WHAT'S NEW FOR 2011
The 2010 model was essentially all new, with updated exterior and interior, features and equipment - including the optionally available TDI diesel engine. The 2011 model is more or less the same, with a minor uptick in prices across the board
WHAT'S GOOD
Athletic performance/superior handling - even from base model. Almost-hybrid fuel efficiency (42 MPGs on the highway) with optional TDI diesel - without the complexity or hassles of owning a hybrid, including down-the-road issues with the batteries.
Feels solid as the rock of Gibraltar. Can be equipped with luxury-level amenities, including hard drive music storage and Bluetooth wireless. Available as a coupe (a chief competitor, the Mazda3 isn't). Available as a sedan (another competitor, the Mini Cooper isn't).
WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD
Fairly pricey to start - and can get downright expensive if you add some of the available options. Superb, high-economy TDI diesel engine currently only offered in higher-trim/more expensive version.
Base model interior materials can be a bit bleak-looking. Exterior styling a bit bland compared with Mazda3 and Mini Cooper. VW has had some issues with quality control.
WHAT'S UNDER THE HOOD
Two engines are available in the '11 Golf. Standard is a 2.5 liter, 170 hp gas engine teamed with either a five-speed manual or a six-speed automatic.
This engine is quite powerful for the class. Compare it, for example, with the 2011 Mazda3's standard engine (2.0 liters, 148 hp). To get equivalent power/performance (2.5 liters, 167 hp) you have to step up to the more expensive Mazda3 Sport, which starts at $19,185 - or about $1,200 more than the base model Golf. The base model Mini Cooper, meanwhile, comes standard with just a 1.6 liter, 118 hp engine (for $19,400) while the optional Mini S with turbocharged 1.6 liter engine (172 hp) produces virtually the same power as the Golf's standard engine but costs a lot more ($23,000).
The VW's 2.5 liter engine is also quite economical. EPA rates the Golf equipped with this engine and five-speed manual transmission at 22 city, 30 highway. The base Mazda3 (with smaller, less powerful 2.0 liter engine) does only slightly better: 25 city, 33 highway. The flyweight Mini is cuter than your high school girlfriend and beats them both with an exceptionally thrifty 28 city, 37 highway - but its acceleration (0-60 in about 8.5-8.7 seconds) is borderline Prius-like.
The Golf, meanwhile, is significantly quicker than the base Mini or the base model Mazda3: 0-60 in about 7.7-7.8 seconds with the five-speed manual.
But the Golf has another really strong selling point neither of its rivals can answer and that is the optional 2.0 liter turbocharged, direct injection (TDI) diesel engine. It produces V-6 levels of torque output (236 lbs.-ft., almost all of it available in the lower RPM range where most everyday driving is done) and can deliver 42 MPGs on the highway - by far the best mileage you'll get in anything short of a gas-electric hybrid (or a motorcycle).
The TDI engine has the additional attraction of being inherently more durable than gas-burning engines. A diesel engine, assuming proper care, can be expected to run reliable for many hundreds of thousands of miles - which means your total ownership costs could end up being much lower, since you may not need another new car for the next 15-20 years.
Maybe 25 or 30.
The TDI Golf comes with a six-speed manual (standard) or (optional) a six-speed dual-clutch automatic (DSG). The DSG version is the one that gets best-case mileage of 42 highway (and 30 city) but manual versions still achieve a very impressive 41 highway (and the same 30 mpgs in city-type driving).
The TDI-equipped Golf isn't as quick as the 2.5 liter Golf, but it's 0-60 time of about 8.6 seconds is still almost exactly the same as the less fuel-efficient Mini Cooper and Mazda3 with 2.0 liter engine. All Golfs are front-wheel-drive.
ON THE ROAD
From an enthusiast driver's perspective, the Golf is a real pleasure to drive. It is quick enough to be sporty and has plenty of reserve power to execute fast passing/merging maneuvers comfortably and without straining. It has quick steering response, too - and will corner with athletic poise at pretty high speeds.
But from a normal, everyday driver's point of view, it is also comfortable and smooth. The ride is firm, but not stiff (it is stiff - and bouncy - in the Mini Cooper and to a lesser extent, the Mazda3). Though the Golf is a small car, it feels extremely solid - a characteristic trait of German-built cars. Even cruising along at close to 90 mph, there is minimal road/tire/wind noise transmitted into the cabin and the car seems completely at ease and ready to go much faster (which of course it is designed to do, given Germany's high-speed Autobahns). At legal U.S. speeds, the Golf feels understressed - like a powerful bodybuilder just warming up.
TDI versions launch with forcefullness, too. If you want, you can even squeal the tires. Few 40-plus mpg cars can do that. It is also quiet - whether idling in traffic or running 75 on the highway.
I could find no fault with either of the Golf's available engines, both of which manage to be strong performers as well as very fuel-efficient. The transmission choices are also top-drawer. Manual enthusiasts will like that both engines can be teamed with a stick-shift, while going automatic involves no compromises of either performance/driving fun - or economy (DSG-equipped Golfs get the best mileage).
AT THE CURB
As mentioned above, the Golf's two bodystyles (hatchback coupe and four-door sedan) gives it a selling advantage over its two chief rivals, the Mini Cooper (no sedan version) and Mazda3 (no coupe). It's also nice that both versions have about the same interior space (more on this follows below).
The interior of the base Golf comes off as a little on the Spartan side in terms of initial impressions but the car is well-equipped as it sits with AC and most power options (windows, lock, cruise control) plus a very decent eight-speaker stereo with MP3 player. The bland-looking materials (dash cover/door panels, etc.) are however substantial-looking and panel fitment is superior.
Though you might expect the TDI version to be low-budget/economy-oriented it actually has more standard stuff than the base Golf - including 17 inch alloy rims, a premium audio system with touchscreen interface, Bluetooth wireless, fog lights - and a firmer-riding, sport-tuned suspension.
You can further dress out your Golf with leather, heated seats, GPS (bundled with music storage hard drive) Xenon HID headlights, a sunroof and other stuff - but be aware that some of these options are expensive and if you're not careful you can end up with a Golf that's pushing $30k.
Space-wise, the Golf (both versions) has more front-seat headroom (39.3 inches) than either the Mini (38.8 inches) or the Mazda3 (38.9 inches) and virtually the same front-seat legroom as the Mini (41.2 inches vs. 41.4 inches.) The Mazda3 has significantly more front seat legroom (42 inches) but the Golf beats the Mazda on rear-seat headroom (38.5 inches vs. 37.5 inches), while the Mazda has a bit more rear-seat legroom (36.2 inches vs. 35.6). The bottom line is that it will depend on your body type as far as which car feels roomier in the back.
The big point, though, is that the VW has useable back seats. The Mini, on the other hand, doesn't.
While the Mini has surprisingly generous room for front seat occupants its rear seats are Adult Unfriendly (just 29.9 inches of legroom) which severely limits its practicality relative to the VW (or the Mazda).
The VW's trunk/cargo capacity is 12.4 cubic feet - better than the Mazda3 (11.8 cubic feet) and vastly better than the Mini (5.7 cubic feet). Although to be fair the Mini has the most potential cargo room, 24 cubic feet - but that's with the second row seats down and the Mini transporting no more than two people.
A nice touch in the Golf are the standard eight-way manual-adjust seats, which can be ratcheted up and down to accommodate shorter or taller drivers and which really improves the day-to-day usability of the car.
My only gripe is that VW doesn't offer the excellent TDI diesel in a "basic" version of the Golf - perhaps even without power windows - which would lighten it up as well as lower its cost. An $18k TDI Golf capable of 44 mpg on the highway would be incredibly appealing.
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There are pros and cons here. On the one hand, the Golf - especially the TDI-equipped version - is one of the most economical cars you can buy in terms of everyday fuel economy as well as potential down-the-road longevity. On the other hand, the VW's base price is fairly steep relative to other economy-type but still-sporty cars you might buy, including the $15,450 (to start) Mazda3.
Also, VW has had a somewhat spotty record in recent years as far as minor gremlins such as problems with electrical systems. The New Beetle, in particular.
That said, the current Golf is an all-new model and VW has hopefully worked out whatever issues plagued some its earlier models. And to be fair, the Mini has had its own issues with quality/reliability, too.
Warranty-wise, the Golf comes with a standard three year/36,000 basic and five year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty. Mazda offers exactly the same coverage on the Mazda3 and Mini offers a bit more basic coverage, with a four-year/50,000 mile standard warranty (but a less substantial four-year/50,000 mile policy on the powertrain).
The only extra-cost safety feature is back seat side-impact airbags (for the sedan; they're not available in the coupe). Both coupes and sedans come standard with ABS, traction and stability control, front seat side-impact air bags and first and second row head/curtain air bags.
The Golf costs a bit more than other entry-level sporty-economy cars but it offers superior power/peformance and (in TDI versions) simply outstanding fuel efficiency, which washes away much of the difference in up-front expenses.If you can afford to spend the extra grand or three necessary to get into one, you'll be much happier when you're driving one.