Precious Recommendations

Each subject of the clothes — becomes a bright element of your style if all is picked up correctly. How to choose clothes or an accessory, know practically all. Choosing clothes or jewels, it's important to consider all: style, size, colour.

Harmony of Jewelry

As to a choice of jewels, it's necessary to notice that ornaments are able to carry not all, and to choose them so that they were as much as possible harmonious. Because each jewelry has the rules of combinations.

For young women: graceful ringlets, platinum chains, gold and silver rings, luxury daisy jewellery, jewels with semiprecious stones.
For madam: expensive and more massive jewels with precious and semiprecious stones become the first class jewels.

Many consider that white and yellow gold are not combined among themselves. However, it's possible to name it opinion erroneous.

For certain, each girl knows what to try on simultaneously things of various colours — not always the favourable decision. Too this rule concerns any jewels.Products are badly combined with stones if colour of stones is badly combined with colour of clothes: turquoise does not need to be carried with blue or green things; rubies — with red etc.
Is better, when silver charms have contrast shade, Because this colour almost universal. Jewelry with stones also are badly combined with bright costume jewellery.

If there are difficulties in a choice it's possible to stop the choice on gold jewels without stones, and if with stones, on jewels by Lovelinks or a diamond necklace.

Lovelinks with the Swarovski crystal beads

Siena Sporting

A Fiat lançou as novas versões para o Siena, a 1.6 16V E.torQ Sporting e a 1.4 Fire EL.

A versão Sporting vem com motor E.torQ flex com 115 cv a gasolina e 117 cv a álcool, ele vem com câmbio é mecânico e opção de câmbio Dualogic. O Siena Sporting traz de série ar-condicionado, direção hidráulica, vidros elétricos dianteiros , trava elétrica, volante com regulagem de altura, computador de bordo, follow me home.

Ainda sobre o Sporting: Seu visual é diferenciado por faróis com máscara negra, saias laterais e spoiler dianteiro na cor do veículo, rodas de liga-leve de 15” e aerofólio na tampa traseira. No interior os pedais vem com capa esportiva, alavanca de câmbio e de freio de mão com costura prata e volante em couro.

O EL 1.4 traz de série rodas aro 14, direção hidráulica, comando interno da abertura do porta malas e da tampa do combustível, My Car Fiat, Follow Me Home, computador de bordo, conta-giros, indicador da próxima revisão e alerta de velocidade, três apoios de cabeça no banco traseiro, brake light, espelho de cortesia para-sol lado motorista e passageiro, vidro traseiro térmico temporizado, bolsa porta-objetos nas portas dianteiras e porta-revistas no encosto dos bancos dianteiros.

O preço da versão Sporting é de R$ 48.980, o da versão EL sai por R$ 35.180.

CURITIBA RECEBE A QUARTA RODADA DO RACING FESTIVAL

O Autódromo Internacional de Curitiba receberá no próximo final de semana (25 e 26 de setembro) o Racing Festival, que conta com o Trofeo Linea, a Fórmula Future Fiat e a 600 Hornet (motos). Serão dias de grande movimentação em um dos principais circuitos do Brasil, onde terá disputa acirrada em todas as categorias.


O Racing Festival vem se constituindo em grande sucesso em seu ano de estreia nas pistas brasileiras. Há três semanas, em Interlagos, o próprio piloto da Ferrari Felipe Massa acompanhou as provas de perto pela primeira vez e se mostrou impressionado com a receptividade do público e o excelente nível técnico das disputas. "A garotada da Fórmula Future Fiat mostrou um grande potencial. No Trofeo Linea, a experiência dos grandes nomes do automobilismo nacional garantiu um espetáculo de alto nível e equilíbrio. Não é à toa que as seis corridas apresentaram um vencedor diferente", lembrou.


No Trofeo Linea, que utiliza os modelos de rua da Fiat transformados para competição, a regularidade de atuações tem sido a receita empregada por André Bragantini para se manter na ponta da tabela desde a abertura do calendário no fim de maio no Rio de Janeiro. Paulista radicado há anos em Curitiba, Bragantini ainda corre atrás da primeira vitória, mas abriu uma confortável vantagem sobre os perseguidores mais próximos - tem 54 pontos contra 39 do carioca Cacá Bueno e 37 do paulista Giuliano Losacco.


A Fórmula Future Fiat é uma categoria-escola. Os chassis são produzidos na França pela Signatech e os motores Fiat FPT. O pacote de premiação é dos mais atraentes: além da temporada paga na Fórmula Abarth na Itália em 2011, o campeão ganhará vaga na Ferrari Drivers Academy, o programa de formação de jovens talentos mantido pela equipe italiana. O carioca Nicolas Costa lidera a classificação com 74 pontos, contra 68 do paulista João Jardim e 61 do gaúcho Francisco Alfaya.

Veja os horários do Trofeo Linea, Fórmula Future Fiat e 600 Hornet:



Sábado, 25 de setembro


13h45 às 14h05 - treino classificatório Q1 - 600 Hornet
14h10 às 14h20 - treino classificatório Q2 - 600 Hornet
14h40 às 15h10 - treino classificatório - Formula Future Fiat
15h20 às 15h40 - treino classificatório - Trofeo Linea
15h45 - Top Qualifying (volta lançada - seis melhores tempos) - Trofeo Linea


Domingo, 26 de setembro


Fórmula Future

09h30 - largada - 1ª prova (7ª etapa)
13h15 - largada - 2ª prova (8ª etapa)


Trofeo Linea

10h20 - largada - 1ª prova (7ª etapa)
14h25 - largada - 2ª prova (8ª etapa)


600 Hornet

11h20 - largada - 1ª prova (7ª etapa)
15h30 - largada - 2ª prova (8ª etapa)


O Racing Festival, apresentado pela Fiat e Banco Santander, tem patrocínio da Shell, co-patrocínio da Pirelli e FPT Powertrain Technologies, apoio Magneti Marelli e Rodas Scorro e realização da RM Racing Events.

Fonte Fiat

Used Car Buying Guide & Things to Think About

Used Car Buying Guide & Things to Think About, Buying a used vs. a new vehicle can be a smart move, but like most things in life, there are definite pros and cons ... and some other things worth thinking about, too.

The main pros -
* You won't pay new car sticker price; someone else will do that for you. The savings here can be enormous, even on a slightly-used (2-3 year old car), typically 20-30 percent or more.

* Because today's new cars are more reliable than the new cars of 10 or 20 years ago, today's used cars are more reliable, too. That means buying used is less risky than it ever has been.

* Because modern new car warranties are so good - in some cases, as long as 10 years/100,000 miles on major components such as the engine and transmission - the odds are good you'll be able to find a late-model used car that still has at least a portion of its original factory warranty (which is almost always fully transferrable to you) intact.

The main cons -

* Used car prices right now are actually upticking; in part because last year's "cash for clunkers" program reduced the inventory of used cars, in part because more buyers these days are shopping used rather than new as they try to cut back on expenses.

* If you plan to finance, expect to pay more for interest. And: Stay away from dealers that advertise "Buy here, pay here." These places are shark pools - and you are the chum. Shop your financing from a credit union or reputable bank - and get it all lined up before you start shopping for the vehicle.

* It's not new, so it may need maintenance/repair work - which could throw costs into the mix you didn't budget for.

Things to keep in mind -

* Try to shop when you don't have to. A mistake many people make is "emergency shopping" - they find themselves in sudden need of wheels - any wheels - and feel pressured to buy something - anything - ASAP. This is a great way to end up with the short end of the stick. Try to anticipate the need for a vehicle and shop for it at your leisure, on your own schedule. That will take the pressure off and help you make the right decision.

* Each used car is an individual. All new cars are pretty much the same. One dealer's brand-new F-150 is going to be the same as the dealer across town's brand-new F-150, so you don't have to worry about condition or how it was maintained. You can focus on price and other things. With a used car, condition is at least as important as price - arguably even more so. A good deal on a crappy car is not going to make you happy.

It's always a bit of a gamble when you buy a used vehicle, which is why it's smart to have any used car you're seriously thinking about buying inspected by a mechanic or shop you trust before you commit to buying.

* Research the rep. While relatively few late model cars (those built during the past 8-10 years or so) are out-and-out lemons or have major problems, some are - and more important (because the odds of it affecting you are higher) some makes/models can cost more to maintain, or need maintenance more often, than other cars in their class/segment.

For example, certain vehicles are known to be harder on tires than others, or seem to need brake work more often - or have a history of early transmission failures. Etc. These are things you want to know about before you buy.

You can get information about prior recalls and major known defects from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's searchable database at http://www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html. Consumer Reports is a great resource for detailed information about any given vehicle's general record for upkeep costs and problems reported by owners. See http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/index.htm.

Red Flags -

* Unusually low (or high) miles - Most of us consider low mileage to be a good thing - and most of the time, it is. Lower mileage usually means the car has more life left in it - and that you'll spend less on maintenance/repairs. Still, be wary of any vehicle with advertised mileage that's abnormally low for its age. It could be odometer fraud. Or (just as bad) it could be a mess from years of just "sitting there" - which can be as hard on a car as going to the dragstrip every weekend.

On the other end of the scale, cars with very high miles may be ex-rental or "fleet" cars - not necessarily a bad thing, but the bottom line is that miles on the clock equals wear and tear - and the more miles/wear-and-tear on a vehicle, the more likely it is you'll be spending money on repairs and maintenance.

Generally speaking, it's normal for a car to rack up about 10,000-12,000 miles per year for every year it's been in service. So, for example a 2007 model year vehicle would typically have about 30,000 miles or so on it. If it has significantly more (or less) miles on it than it ought to for the year, ask why - and be sure to get an answer that makes sense.

* Will it pass emissions? In areas where a successful "smog check" is necessary in order to register and gets plates for a car, be sure the vehicle will pass emissions before you buy it. You can use this as a haggling point, and if the seller's willing to knock the price down to allow for what it's going to cost you to get the car through smog, you'll be much happier with the deal.

* The "As Is" disclaimer - It should read "Whatever goes wrong is now your problem" - which would be more honest. When you see "As Is" on a bill of sale, be aware that most any problem that crops up after you take possession is going to be your problem. Caveat emptor.

Exceptions do exist for misrepresentation, which can involve fraud. But be aware that even if you're in the right, legally speaking, it can still be a huge hassle (and expense) to get your money back.

* "I'm selling it for a friend". . . This red flag should be as hard to miss as Michael Jackson asking if it's ok for your eight-year-old son to sleep over at his place. What you're probably dealing with here is a "curbstoner" - a person who buys and sell cars (usually, crappy ones) after a quick detailing and (sometimes) lots of Bondo and Motor Honey thrown in to mask a rotting shell and tired engine.

Curbstoners typically acquire the cars they sell on the cheap at wholesale auctions, or by purchasing them from others. They then clean them up a little - and sometimes fix obvious problems and place an ad in the classifieds or on Ebay representing the car as their own ... until you notice the name on the title and paperwork is different. Then they explain it's "a friend's car" - or maybe "Uncle Bob's." Walk away. Rapidly.

* It's already "warmed up" for your test drive. Never buy a used car you haven't had a chance to try starting up after it's been sitting overnight. If you don't you could be in for an unpleasant - and potentially expensive - suprise the morning after you've bought it.

Many mechanical/maintenance-related problems either show up or are much worse at cold start. For example, a worn-out engine will tend to clatter (valve/lifter problems), make tell-tale noises (rod knock/worn bearings), or smoke excessively when it's first started up in the morning. These are possible signs of major underlying problems which are sometimes masked or muted once the engine warms up. A problem with hard starting or erratic engine pefomance could also be hidden from you by a seller who has let the car "get ready" for half an hour before you arrive.

The Test Drive -

* If possible, test drive several of the same make/model vehicle before you commit to one; this will give you a better feel for what "normal" ought to be for that specific make/model of car or truck - which in turn may help you avoid buying the one that has a problem.

* Pay special attention to the oil pressure, temperature and Volt gauges (if equipped). A high or low reading (or vibrating needle/fluctuation) could hint at big problems you don't want to inherit.

* Make sure the "check engine" light comes on at initial start-up and then quickly goes out. If it doesn't come on at all - or stays on - there could be expensive issues with the emissions controls you don't want to deal with. Keep on shopping.

* Do an up-close physical inspection of the entire exterior; in particular, look for body panels that don't seem to align right as well as evidence of paint overspray on rubber trim around windows and doors, emblems and so on. Body panel alignment (including gaps between panels) on modern cars is extremely close-tolerance; if it's not, be suspicious the car was possibly in an accident. If you find any overspray, you'll know it was in an accident.

* Pop the trunk and smell the carpet (do this inside the cabin as well). If you smell a moldy smell, the car leaks at minimum and may have been flood damaged. Water damage is not worth messing with. Pass on this car.

* On a straight section of road, briefly relax your grip on the steering wheel to see whether the car tracks straight. If it doesn't, at minimum it needs an alignment but it could have more expensive suspension issues.

* Get up to about 45 mph on a straight section of road and apply the brakes firmly. The vehicle should stop straight and remain in control. If you feel a mushy pedal, vibration or the vehicle seems to take overly long to stop, it likely needs brake work. Maybe, more.

* The engine/transmission should not make any weird or excessively loud noises (again, if you took the time to test drive several of the make/model vehicle you're considering, something that's "not right" will be obvious). Be sure to operate all accessories, such as power windows, locks, cruise control, the stereo, AC system, etc.

The bottom line is, everything ought to work properly. And: listen to your Spider Sense. If something doesn't feel right or sound it probably isn't right. Move on to the next candidate.

The best place for your Hummer car needs

One of my favorite cars, cars that look masculine, such as the Hummer, the display that is designed for this guy probably will be one of my next collection, in because of functional or aesthetic design that made very classical and also strong, giving his own appeal for the fans monster car, even for the travelers in the Hummer seem suitable to have, because it can be brought may in all fields, only need to replace some parts of the Hummer, such as wheel and the other ...

Hummer also be a private car is very beautiful, just need to add some accessories Hummer, that could make us even more beautiful and more authoritative in the drive, did you ever drive a Hummer on the street would feel different to driving a regular car like a sedan or a similar model . and someone else also thinks "wow" extraordinary

but sometimes many people have trouble finding the place of purchase accessories for the Hummer or Hummer parts, but now it is available where the purchase of accessories for the Hummer even online you can access it and indeed in the devoutly for its Hummer course, this means the Hummer experts already makes it easy for you all the hobby with this car, so you do not need hard to find in any city or place of service that they are not necessarily experts in the installation or the modification of Hummer accessories

I hope this information allows you all to find a place to purchase quality Hummer accessories and who is an expert in this car

Citroën Survolt vesos Agni Z2 em um duelo eletrizante

Diretamente de nosso parceiro Auto Clube, o duelo entre elétricos:



Mais detalhes do duelo lá em Auto Clube.

How to Pick a First Car for Your Teen Driver

How to Pick a First Car for Your Teen Driver, The ideal car for a first-time teen driver is one that will decrease the odds of that first-time accident happening -- and minimize the potential for harm if it does.

The object is to shield your teen as much as possible from the natural and inevitable consequences of youth and inexperience. Even if your kid is mature and responsible beyond his years, he or she is still aninexperienced driver. It takes seat time to become familiar with how a car behaves in various situations -- in ice and snow, at night, under unexpected conditions -- and more to the point, how others (that random element) behave in their cars. That initial 12-48 month period is the "danger zone" when accidents due to errors of judgment, lack of experience -- or simply being in the wrong place at the wrong time -- are most likely to happen.

The car you choose for that first year or three of real world behind-the-wheel training can make all the difference between smooth sailing -- and something that didn't have to happen.

Here are some general car-buying guidelines that will help keep your teen driver out of trouble:

* Choose a car: SUVs and pick-ups are poor choices for first-time drivers --especially SUVs and trucks without 4WD. They tend to be light in the rear (because the weight of the engine/driveline is concentrated up front) and thus have a tendency to "fishtail" during panic stops or when the road is slick. You can crutch this somewhat by loading up the bed (or cargo area) with a few hundred pounds of dead weight -- or by purchasing an SUV or pick-up that has 4WD. But even with 4WD, pick-ups and SUVs are less stable, more tipsy, take longer to stop -- and are thus more dangerous for a just-minted driver than a passenger car. It's better to learn the essentials on a car before moving to a specialty vehicle of any type such as pick-up, SUV or sports car.

* Choose a larger car: Bigger and heavier is inherently safer -- especially in the event of a crash into a fixed object (such as a tree) or with a larger vehicle (such as an SUV). Larger cars offer more built-in occupant protection because they're able to absorb more force than smaller, lighter cars. If you go to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's web site (www.nhtsa.dot.gov) you'll see that vehicles in the full and mid-sized category tend to score much better in crash testing than cars in the compact and smaller categories. Avoid subcompact-sized cars -- even if they do get better gas mileage. A very small car stands little chance when T-boned by a Hummer. (A side benefit of a larger car is it can carry more stuff -- a fact worth pointing out to your road-tripping teenage son or daughter.)

* Choose a later model car: Basic reliability can be as important as basic safety. You don't want your kid learning the hard way about bald tires, bad brakes, shot shocks and a worn out suspension. Whatever car you end up buying, take the time to make certain it is mechanically sound and completely roadworthy; have a reputable shop or mechanic you trust give it a thorough once over -- and fix anything that needs fixing. Leave the broken down el-cheapo special "beater" for your son or daughter's second car.

* Choose a car without a wing, hood scoop, loud exhaust, big engine -- or anything else that says "I'm looking for a race": Teens being teens, few have the judgment to resist being egged-on by other teens to "see what it'll do." If it looks fast or sounds fast you can bet they'll want to see just how fast it really is. And the end result is often tragic. Just as new pilots don't start out in F-14s, new drivers should be kept away from cars with capabilities far beyond their limited experience. V-8s should be off the menu, period -- but eyeball even the four cylinder cars out there because some of them may not look like much but are in fact silly-fast things no one under 18 should be allowed near. (Side bennie: You will pay less to insure an under-21 driver if you avoid sporty, high-performance vehicles and stick with basic transportation - mid-size, family-car style four door sedans and wagons especially.)

* Choose a car with ABS and at least dual (driver and front-seat passenger) air bags: Pretty much any car built after about the 2000 model year will have both of these safety features. Anti-lock brakes (ABS) help prevent the vehicle from skidding out of control during a panic stop as a result of the brakes "locking up." Air bags protect against impact forces in a crash -- and are particularly valuable in smaller vehicles as they compensate to some extent for smaller size and weight. If you must buy a smaller car, try and find one with both frontal and side-impact air bags as they will dramatically improve the survivability/crashworthiness of a smaller car. (Bonus: Many insurance companies will discount the premium for a car equipped with these safety features.)

* Choose a manual transmission: In some European countries, a license applicant must take his or her driver's test in a car with a manual transmission -- the logic being that a person who has mastered starting a car on a hill without stalling or rolling backward, who knows how to smoothly engage the right gear at the right time to safely merge into traffic and so on -- has probably mastered the basic skills necessary to be a safe driver. Modern cars are deceptively easy to "drive" in the sense of getting them going -- a 10-year-old could physically put the key in the ignition, move the handle from "Park" to "Drive" -- and floor it right through the closed garage door and straight into your neighbor's kitchen. Operating a manual transmission, on the other hand, is a skill that takes time to develop- and is a great training tool that can help your teen become a better -- and therefore safer -- driver. (Bonus: a car with a manual transmission is usually capable of better fuel economy and is typically cheaper to buy.)

* Choose FWD or AWD over RWD when possible: Front-drive cars (FWD) and all-wheel-drive cars (AWD) have better traction on dry pavement as well as in rain and snow and are thus more controllable than a rear-drive (RWD) car. Rear-drive cars also have a tendency to oversteer (tail out) when they begin to slide out of control -- whereas front-drive cars tend to understeer (the front of the car "plows") , which is easier for the novice driver to deal with. If you must go with a rear-drive car, try and pick one that comes with some form of electronic traction control to limit wheelspin on slippery surfaces and ideally, an electronic stability control system -- which uses the anti-lock brakes to keep the vehicle on course when it would otherwise begin to slip out of control.

Lastly and perhaps most importantly -- do all you can teach your teen driver to drive with respect for others and to obey common sense. Point out examples of good and bad driving -- and show them how it's done by your own good example. Warn them of the dangers of being cocky and overconfident. Deal strictly with poor conduct and bad choices -- and pull those privileges if your son or daughter does something that shows he or she may not have the proper respect for being in charge of a potentially lethal piece of machinery.

Honda City DX

A Honda disponibiliza uma versão mais “em conta” do City, denominada DX.

Visando aumentar as vendas esta versão, diferente da LX, EX e EXL, não traz sistema de som e bandeja sob o assento traseiro.

O visual fica com o da versão LX motor 1.5 de 116 cavalos.

Todas as versões trazem airbag ,apoio de cabeça e cinto de segurança de três pontos para os cinco ocupantes. As versões DX e LX têm freios dianteiros a disco e traseiros a tambor.

Preços para todas as versões do City:
R$ 55.420,00 (DX MT)
R$ 59.300,00 (DX AT)
R$ 57.420,00 (LX MT)
R$ 61.300,00 (LX AT)
R$ 62.975,00 (EX MT)
R$ 66.855,00 (EX AT)
R$ 66.780,00 (EXL MT)
R$ 72.625,00 (EXL AT)

Novo Gol Rallye

A Volkswagen preferiu utilizar na versão aventureira do Gol a denominação Rallye, ao invés do Cross, a primeira versão Rallye surgiu em 2004.

O novo Gol Rallye busca o publico mais jovem ele tem o visual mais esportivo.

Na versão de partida do Rallye sai por R$ 40.000 e traz sensores de estacionamento, direção hidráulica, computador de bordo, luz de neblina, rodas de liga leve aro 15” e 6 alto-falantes, entre outros itens que deveriam ser básicos, mas não são, como conta-giros e desembaçador do vidro traseiro. Ele não traz Ar-condicionado, ABS, airbags e rádio estes itens são vendidos separadamente.

A versão I-Motion sai por R$ 43.030

Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 Versus Porsche 911 Turbo

Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 Versus Porsche 911 Turbo quem você acha que leva a melhor?

The touch-DKR Mcchip Improve Performance VW Golf R

The touch-DKR Mcchip Improve Performance VW Golf R, Variants of this one was often a touch of modification. Yups, Volkswagen Golf or commonly called the VW Golf. Starting from the version of the GTR or R it is tempting to cut back. Like do not want to miss it, the tuner in the company's German engineering Mcchip-DKR has created a set of new upgrades for the Volkswagen Golf R. Changes that are offered include new software applications for Machine Control Unit (ECU) is able to increase horsepower almost 17 percent of the total power of 270 PS (199 kW/267 bhp) and torque of 350 Nm (258 lb-ft) to later become PS 315 (232 kW/311 bhp) and 440 Nm (325 lb-ft).

Maximum engine torque output has also increased substantially from 350 to 440 Nm, the profits which reached almost 26 percent. Construction costs for upgrade this machine set-DKR Mcchip worth 899 Euros, or approximately USD 10.2 million. Hhmmm not too expensive .. right? Its composition has also been designed to work optimally with one of the gearbox car.

For others, the company had set a 350 Euro (USD 3.97 million) for the suspension, and install a shortened output that can be H & R. Not just any pairing, this new equipment can also be directly tested for safety the Golf R itself but with the additional cost of 59 euros (USD 660 thousand). The biggest cost comes from Ultraleggera OZ alloy 8x19-inch size that is set for 3190 Euros or approximately USD 36.2 million. The black wheels look increasingly characterized by high Performance tires wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport Cup output size 235/35.

Overall, there is almost no significant change inherent in this hatchback body. However Mcchip-DKR believes that customization was doing would attract a positive response users VW Golf R. So no need to shell out a lot of money to get more Golf Performance of R, if modifications for 4500 Euros (USD 51.1 million) has been able to answer your desires. But then again .... your choice remained in the hands of the fans Golf R.

Como escolher um carro usado

Para muitas pessoas comprar um carro usado pode ser mais vantajoso que a compra de um carro novo. Por exemplo: Um carro usado desvaloriza menos do que um novo em alguns casos. Vamos supor que você compre um Golf 1.6 com o básico mas um carro zero. Mas pelo mesmo valor você pode comprar uma BMW com uns 5 anos de uso pelo mesmo valor porem com todos opcionais que até o Golf mais completos não teriam, daqui um ano ou dois, provavelmente, o Golf terá uma desvalorização muito maior que a BMW.

Muitos preferem comprar um 0k pois não dará muitos problemas, porem não é o que se vê hoje em dia principalmente nos equipamentos eletrônicos.

A tarefa mais dura em comprar um carro usado, é justamente, encontrar este carro e dê preferência para revendas autorizadas ou de confiança. E quando encontrar preste atenção nos seguintes itens:

1. Examine o carro de dia, para ver se há bolhas (ferrugem), ou ondulações e amassados (batidas), se tiver à oportunidade leve o carro a uma oficina de pintura eles saberão se o carro já foi batido.
2. Teste o amortecedor balançando o carro. Se o veículo balançar diversas vezes, o amortecedor pode estar em más condições.
3. Examine o estado dos pneus. Desgastes irregulares nos pneus indicam problemas com a suspensão, alinhamento ou balanceamento das rodas.
4. Fique atento a respingos ou encerados na pintura. Eles podem ocultar defeitos.
5. Observe se a linha lateral do carro não tem ondulações: agache junto ao farol dianteiro e mire a perspectiva do carro.
6. Cheque o encaixe de portas, capô e porta-malas: possíveis folgas denunciam consertos malfeitos.

Parte interna:
1. Dê ao menos uma volta para ver se há ruídos com o carro em movimento.
2. Engate cada uma das marchas para ver se encaixam com facilidade.
3. Peça a avaliação de um mecânico de confiança. Ele possui conhecimento técnico suficiente para detectar qualquer problema.
4. Freie normalmente o carro. Se houver ruído metálico, é sinal de que as pastilhas estão gastas. Em um local plano e sem fluxo de carros, freie o veículo soltando as mãos da direção. Se o carro pender para um dos lados, há problemas no freio, suspensão ou os pneus não estão corretamente calibrados.
5. Verifique se as rodas estão balanceadas e alinhadas. Caso não estejam, haverá trepidação na direção ou o carro penderá para um dos lados.
6. Certifique-se de que o veículo tem todos os equipamentos de segurança obrigatórios.

Exija todos os documentos em ordem na hora da compra. Para transferir o veículo para o seu nome no Detran você precisará dos DOCUMENTOS PARA TRANSFERÊNCIA DE PROPRIEDADE:

1. Comprovantes do pagamento do IPVA atual (e de dois anos anteriores), do seguro obrigatório e de multas pendentes.
2. Certificado de Registro e Licenciamento do veículo.
3. Certificado de Transferência datado, preenchido e com firma reconhecida. 4. Cópias da Carteira de Identidade e do CPF.
5. Comprovante de residência.
6. Decalque do número do chassi do veículo.